Tasty
tidbits
Never
underestimate those holes in the wall
So
what if the walls have a yellow film to them,
the formica tabletops have ingrained circle
water stains and the nagahyde-covered, rusted
steel-framed chairs look like they were
purchased from a garage sale back in the ’70s?
Be
brave and don’t run away because chances are
you’ve stumbled upon the ubiquitous “hole in
the wall.”
And
as many foodies will admit, some of these
mom-and-pop, and off-the-beaten-path operations
serve up some tasty grinds.
For
a hole-in-the-wall-type place, Samira’s
Country Market (734-8317) surprisingly accepts
reservations — and, ironically, you'll need
them. The three-table “dining room” is
cramped and warm. But the lump crabcake, duck
cassoulet and Cordon Bleu chicken are worth a
little discomfort.
Located
in the industrial airport area, Mitch’s Sushi
(837-7774) is a shoebox-sized sushi bar, where
the house specialty is live New Zealand lobster,
part of which is simmered in miso soup and the
tail part served sashimi-style.
For
garlic chicken, critics and foodies alike swear
by Sugoi (841-7984).
And
if you want some of the best manapua and pork
hash found anywhere on the island, step down —
literally — to Char Hung Sut (538-3335).
On
the Windward side, Kin Wah Chop Suey
(247-4812/247-5024) is a longtime kamaaina
favorite. The Peking duck with buns is
exceptional and daily seafood specials are
available.
For
a bowl of homestyle noodles, check out Palace
Saimin Stand (841-9983).
And
if it’s two scoops of mac salad and sushi you
crave, visit Fukuya (946-2073).
Tucked
away on an anonymous side street in Kapahulu,
Izakaya Nonbei offers homestyle Japanese stew
and fresh sashimi. Must-tries include the
deep-fried flounder and garlic steak.
Located
approximately 25 miles west of Nonbei,
Restaurant Kunio (680-9188) is revered by
Waikele residents, who come in for sushi and the
“Triple” meal deal.
Mililani
parents know the value of Sun’s Bar-B-Q
(623-6000). In the morning, they start lining up
as early as 5 a.m. for bentos that they’ll
send off with their kids to school.
While
some will opt for the McDonald’s drive-thru,
others will park across the street and have a
sit-down breakfast or lunch at Cafe Haleiwa
(637-5516).
Once
the site of Texas Paniolo Cafe, Maliko O Punaluu
(237-8474) serves fresh Island fish — straight
from the fishing boats — and garlicky shrimp
scampi.
And
if you want the best garlic shrimp and kung pao
chicken, you’ll find them at Pineland
(955-2918). Be warned — this is a place
you’ll probably want to turn away from
screaming, while resembling an Edvard Munch
painting.
But
be brave and throw caution to the wind.